Does Meat Make You Happy?

One of the requirements of the holiday of Sukkos is to be happy. Happiness is a feeling, and feelings are difficult to produce upon command, so we are given some suggestions of ways to make ourselves happy. The Rambam in the Mishna Torah says that one of the ways is to drink wine and eat meat. Of course, that doesn’t mean to be a glutton or a drunkard, but to eat meat and drink wine in moderation. Indeed, after coming home from shul on Sukkos, it is customary to eat a delicious meal that often has a meat component.

I know very little about meat, so, lekavod Yom Tov, I spoke to the people at Wasserman and Lemberger, who know a lot. Mr. Ari Benjamin and Mr. Yitz Burk were kind enough to tell me a little bit about the meat that they sell.

Q: Why has the price of meat and chicken gone up?

A: Prices have gone up because the market has been affected by the Covid pandemic. There is a shortage of workers, delivery is more expensive, and the whole system was changed due to the closing of restaurants, etc. Although the price of chicken has gone up even more than the price of meat, chicken is still less expensive than meat.

Q: What is the difference between imported meat and meat produced in the United States?

A: Domestic meat is usually sold fresh. Imported meat comes from Mexico and South America and is usually sold frozen. Domestic meat is more expensive and usually more tender. Imported meat comes from free-range animals and is usually tougher.

Q: What do the terms “grass-fed” and “organic” mean?

A: The term grass-fed has to do with the feed the cattle are given. Most animals feed on grass in the summer, and in the winter are fed on grains and soy. Almost all animals can therefore be classified as grass-fed since there are very few standards for ranchers regarding what it means. A truly grass-fed cow does have less fat and is typically a tougher meat. Organic, on the other hand, is a term that the USDA regulates. To use the organic label, farmers need to complete a certification process, which can take years.

Q: Why can a cut of shoulder roast, say, be more expensive in one place and less expensive in another?

A: The USDA, which regulates all food, classifies meat into three major categories. The highest is prime, then choice, and then select. At Wasserman, we deal almost exclusively with prime. The imported meats from Mexico and South America are usually choice or select. The higher the grade, the more it costs. If the price is low, it is probably a cheaper grade. There are also very expensive kinds of prime beef, like Wagyu or Kobe. We almost never deal with these as the price for a single A5 Wagyu steak can cost upwards of 200 to 300 dollars. Although fattier meat is usually cheaper, for better cuts of meat, like prime, Wagyu, and Kobe beef, fattier meat can be more expensive.

Q: What is the difference between the various categories of meat and how you cook them?

A: Prime beef is produced from young, well-fed beef cattle. It has abundant marbling (the amount of fat interspersed with lean meat). Prime roasts and steaks are excellent for dry-heat cooking such as broiling, roasting, or grilling.

Choice beef is high quality but has less marbling than Prime. Choice roasts and steaks can be very tender, juicy, and flavorful and are suited for dry-heat cooking. However, since they lack the marbling of Prime, long cooks, such as in a crock-pot, are preferable.

Select beef is very uniform in quality and normally leaner than the higher grades. It is fairly tender, but because it has less marbling, it may lack some of the juiciness and flavor of the higher grades. Only the tender cuts should be cooked with dry heat. Other cuts should be marinated before cooking or braised to obtain maximum tenderness and flavor.

There are many ways to cook meat, including sous-vide, grilling, baking, searing, boiling, or slow cooking. Each type of meat will need a different method, and it is worthwhile to use the internet or a cookbook to find the correct method for the piece of meat you are using. Wasserman and Lemberger can also give you tips.

Q: What other kinds of meat do you sell?

A: Wasserman also carries veal, lamb, chicken, and duck. Veal is a very soft meat. Lamb has a more gamey and fatty taste. Duck is like dark-meat chicken with a very thick, fatty skin.

Q: Can you suggest some ways to prepare our meat for Yom Tov?

A: First-cut brisket is best to get nice even slices. Everyone you ask has their bubby’s recipe, and I have seen some that come from the early 1800s. First-cut brisket is best cooked in the oven with root vegetables and a glaze. 

Second-cut brisket is fattier and thus more versatile. It is suited to different methods of cooking. It’s great as a roast by itself, like a regular brisket baked in the oven. You can cook it overnight in a Crock Pot with your favorite BBQ sauce and some onions, and it makes a great pulled beef. You can even put it in a pressure cooker, and 45 minutes later it’s done.

Chuck roasts are great pot roasts. You can cook them in a Dutch oven, crock pot, pressure cooker, or even a 9x13 pan – usually with lots of onions, vegetables, and a sauce. It is a long-cooked roast that will fall apart when ready. This is probably the most forgiving and easiest to make and the hardest to mess up.

Brick roast is a flat roast that is incredibly soft and, like brisket, gives you nice slices.  Cooking it is easy, but, like first-cut brisket, it is on the more expensive side of town.

Corned beef is meat that has been pickled with salt and a mixture of nitrates and spices, which give it its taste and pinkish color. It can be cooked either in a pot of water at a rolling boil or baked in the oven by itself with vegetables or a sauce. 

Pastrami is a corned beef meat that has pastrami seasoning added to it prior to cooking. You can cook it in an oven or smoke it. However, most people prefer to cook it in the package in some hot water or overnight in a crock pot. Do not take it out of the package and put it straight into water or you will wash off all the pastrami seasoning. (This may be obvious to some, but we mention it because, well, people forget sometimes.)

Q: Do you have any other advice?

A: Try your recipe before Yom Tov and have it down pat before cooking for guests. That way, if something goes wrong you will know how to deal with it. The last thing you want is a last-minute scramble. When ordering meat, count the number of adults you will be serving. We recommend half a pound per person per meal. If you are unsure about anything, you can always stop by Wasserman and Lemberger, and we will be happy to help you out. 

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Recipes for Yom Tov from Yitz Burk

Classic Brisket

4 to 5-lb. first-cut brisket

4 carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks

4 stalks celery, cut into 1-inch chunks

4 onions (preferably sweet), diced

4 cloves garlic, minced

1/4 c. light brown sugar

3 T. tomato paste

1 1/2 c. dry red wine (cabernet sauvignon or merlot)

1 1/2 c. beef broth (homemade or store bought)

1 can crushed tomatoes

3 to 4 bay leaves

3 T. honey

2 T. Dijon mustard

Before you begin, prep all your vegetables and measure out all your ingredients. Then place pan on a high flame. Once the pan is hot, sear (brown) both sides of your brisket. This should take about 3 to 5 minutes per side.

Take out brisket and set aside. Reduce the heat to medium. Place chopped onions in the pan that contained the brisket and start to caramelize them for about 5 minutes. Add light brown sugar. Cook for another 10 minutes. Add the chopped celery, carrots, and garlic and cook for 4 to 5 minutes. Finally, add tomato paste and cook for about 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the vegetables and set aside. Deglaze (cook down) the pan with the wine. Scrape up any fond (the burned bits) on the bottom of the pan. Use a wooden spoon for best results. (If you want a thicker sauce, you can add flour or potato starch, a few teaspoons at a time and stir until you get your desired thickness. Only do this once the wine is reduced and not prior.)

Add beef broth and crushed tomatoes. Mix on low heat. Add bay leaves, honey, and mustard. Add back the vegetables and cook together for 2 to 3 minutes. Add salt and pepper to your personal preference. Set brisket into the braising liquid and vegetables, and cover tightly with aluminum foil. Place in a preheated 300°F. oven for 4 hours. Cook until fork tender. Remove brisket from liquid, cooling for least 10 minutes before slicing and topping with sauce and veggies. Enjoy.

Corned Beef

12-oz. jar apricot preserves

1 T. Worcestershire sauce

2 T. Dijon mustard

1/4 c. apple cider vinegar

Prep all vegetables and measure out all ingredients needed. Place corned beef in a Dutch oven or pot. Cover with cold water. Add onion and celery and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a rolling simmer and cover. Simmer for 2 to 2 1/2 hours or until meat is tender. Remove meat from water and drain, placing meat in a cooking dish. If you want, you can keep the vegetables but I usually discard them.

In a small saucepan, melt margarine over medium heat. Stir in the sugar and slowly cook until dissolved. Pour in the apricot preserves, Worcestershire sauce, Dijon mustard, salt, pepper, and apple cider vinegar. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes on medium heat, stirring constantly.

Gently pat meat dry with a soft towel, then brush mixture over beef. Bake uncovered in a preheated oven at 350° for 25 to 30 minutes. Cool for at least 10 minutes before slicing. Enjoy!

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Tips from a Personal Chef

by Tova Ambush

·         Speak to the butcher! They are so knowledgeable and make great recommendations for the price range and cut you’d like, and even how you’d like to cook your meat.

·         Always let meats come to room temperature before cooking.

·         When cooking meats rare or medium, let them sit after being grilled, etc. This keeps the juices from spilling out when the meat is sliced, and it remains moist.

·         Kosher meat is saltier than non-kosher meat and therefore does not need as much salt.

·         Corned beef is not a cut of meat; it is a treatment that can be done on any cut of meat. For example, you can purchase corned beef from brisket or top-of-the-rib roast.

·         Wine adds depth and layers of flavor to meat. Make sure to use good quality wine. The general rule of thumb is to only use wine for cooking that you’d drink!

·         When slicing any cut of meat, make sure to slice against the grain. Look for the long fibers in the meat and slice in the opposite direction.

·         London broil is best cooked rare/medium and thinly sliced. It goes great served room temp, which makes it a good choice for Shabbos day meals.

·         Good roasts for cooking low and slow cooking include brisket, deckle roast, and top-of-the-rib roast. 

Tova Ambush graduated from the Kosher Culinary Center of Brooklyn, NY. In her work as a private chef, she brings her creative, energetic personality to the table to create menus and meals that will make the whole family smile.