Israel Odysseys


When we think of rescue flights, what usually comes to mind is bringing people from a place of war or disaster to a safe area. But, as the oft repeated joke that became popular in Israel goes, “Israel is the only country where people who are in a country where there is peace are eager to be rescued to a country where there is a war.” During the recent 12-day war with Iran, many people were struggling to get home – in both directions. Here are a few stories of the very circuitous ways that some people managed to make the trip. 

Rikki Rubin

My daughter and son-in-law, Chana Leah and Motti Margalit, sponsored a hachnasat sefer Torah at Suburban Orthodox on Sunday, June 15th. Among the many participants were Motti’s family members from Israel. The Margalits had a full house of guests a few days before the ceremony, many of whom were planning to return to Israel within a few days. However, once the war with Iran began, on Friday, June 13th, Ben Gurion airport was closed, and all foreign carriers canceled their flights, disrupting plans for thousands of people. 

“I was really scared when I found out the war with Iran had begun, and the only thing I wanted was to go back home to Israel,” says Rikki Rubin, Motti Margalit’s 21-year-old niece from Ramat Beit Shemesh, who had come with her father for the Hachnasat Sefer Torah. Both she and her father heard the war news on the day they arrived and just wanted to forget about the trip and return to Israel. A sleepless night followed, during which they constantly checked the news from Israel.

      Because they had flown United, they were not eligible for any of the El Al rescue flights. Fortunately, a travel agent they know in Israel was able to design an itinerary through an airline company called Flyyo. On June 23rd, they flew to Athens, which was teeming with Israelis. Flyyo also got them visas and a flight to Taba, a small town on the Egyptian border, near Eilat.

Rikki found the Taba airport rather amusing: “It looked like a joke, like a shell of an airport, just for show. It is very old and small. Someone with a really old computer took our passport information. Only a couple of the people there had on uniforms.” She believes this airport is not normally open during the year. 

From Taba they were escorted to the Israeli border on buses, by men Rikki believes were police, but again, they were not wearing uniforms. They crossed the border on foot. On the Israel side, buses waited to bring Israelis to various locations in Tel Aviv. They saw many people, who appeared to be American tourists, crossing from the other direction, from Israel to Egypt. They took the bus to Ben Gurion, an almost five-hour ride, where Rikki’s mother picked them up. The entire trip took about a day and a half. Fortunately, they had brought plenty of food with them since there was none provided on any of the flights or buses. When they arrived in Israel, the cease fire had just taken effect. They were told, “You missed the war!”

Yanky Margalit

Motti’s brother, Yanky, who traveled from Israel with Delta, had planned to spend 10 days in the U.S. but was stuck here for an extra week. He says he “felt like a refugee in Baltimore,” unable to return home. He was finally able to get home after around 60 hours of traveling through Athens, where there was a 24-hour flight delay. In Athens, he saw many other Israelis at the airport, including families with children, who were there for four days, trying to get flights back to Israel. He flew from Athens to Aqaba, in Jordan, and from Aqaba, he took a bus to the border, where he got a bus to Ben Gurion. 

Rabbi Rivkin, Chabad Emissary at Towson University

      Rabbi Mendy Rivkin, the Chabad emissary at Towson University, led a 40-member Birthright group on a trip to Israel. They arrived in Israel on June 5th with a scheduled return on the 15th. For their final Shabbos in Israel, they stayed in the Jerusalem Gate Hotel, planning to depart on Motzei Shabbos. After Israel attacked Iran early that Friday morning, June 13th, all activities were curtailed, and they were “stuck” in the hotel until restrictions on outside movements, imposed by the government, were lifted. They only ventured out within easy reach of a shelter, to do some shopping, which included groceries, board games, and “a lot of wine.”

Before Shabbos started, one of the students led a campaign, which was partly successful: “There’s a war going on, let’s try to do an extra mitzvah; let’s try to keep Shabbos a little more and turn off our phones.” 

While they were eating dinner together Friday night, the first sirens went off. Although it was a scary experience, the students remained calm and went down to the shelter. For their parents back home, the fear was much more intense when they heard the news, not knowing whether their kids were safe. There was a parents’ WhatsApp group, but they knew that Rabbi Rivkin never posted anything on Shabbos. By Shabbos morning, after two more sirens interrupted their Shabbos meal, unfortunately, not many student phones were still off because the parents were understandably, “freaking out.”

On Monday morning, they were told that they would be moving to a different hotel where there was a pool and more facilities. The kids packed up, excited about the prospect of this change, but a half hour before they were due to move, they got a new message from the Birthright people. “Never mind, there’s a good chance we’ll be able to leave by sea tomorrow.”

A cruise ship in Cyprus was bringing stranded Israelis back to Israel, and the government realized they could use it to bring the Birthright kids to Cyprus, from where they could get flights. Rabbi Rivkin’s group left Jerusalem early Tuesday morning for the port of Ashdod. They were told to use the bathroom before arriving at the port since there were not enough facilities. On the way, all the small gas stations were full of buses like theirs lining up to wait their turns in the restrooms. 

      Unlike other stranded tourists leaving Israel on these cruises, the Birthright students thoroughly enjoyed the amenities. The 2,000 passengers on that ship were from different Birthright groups, and they were living it up. It turns out that they were at the port on the same day that the pro-Gaza activist Greta Thunberg and her entourage were brought to Ashdod.

The group was on the ship for almost a full day, arriving in Cyprus at 8:30 a.m. the next day. There were supposed to be five planes waiting at the airport to bring them directly to the U.S. However, only one of the planes was actually there! In addition to that, the passport control people decided that only 30 people of the group of 2,000 were allowed into the passport facility at the same time. It took hours to get the kids through customs. Eventually, they returned to the boat to wait in order to get out of the heat and lack of water in the parking lot.

After they had finally gotten through customs, it was obvious that no planes were going to materialize. So they got back on the buses and were taken to the Chabad of Cyprus, in Larnaca, which had only 10 minutes notice that they were coming! This obviously created a chaotic situation, but they were welcomed with open arms by the shelichim, Rabbi Arie Zeev and Shaindel Raskin. “Only” 1,500 of the group went to Chabad because some of the other groups had split off and found arrangements.

Rabbi Rivkin describes the scene at Chabad: “They were amazing. They shut down the restaurant that is normally open and made food just for us. They had to bring in more workers and set up many extra tables. The place was crawling with people everywhere.” People were sleeping on the floor, in the classrooms, in the hallways, sitting in the air-conditioned shul and rooftop cafe. At this point, Rabbi Rivkin’s group no longer had a plan.

However, by 1:00 a.m., Birthright had chartered an Arkia plane to Milan, Italy, leaving five hours later that day. Rabbi Rivkin’s group and three other groups, including a Yachad Birthright group, consisting of staff and special needs kids, were on the same flight.

From Milan, they split into five different flights from there to the U.S., with some stopping in Dubai or Rome. Their flight went from Milan to JFK. When they landed, all the relieved parents were sitting there waiting. 

      “It was weird to be running away in the middle of a war,” said Rabbi Rivkin. “It’s not what Chabad people do. We don’t run away; we go to a place of crisis to strengthen people who are there.”

Barry Weiss

Travel agent Barry Weiss had been planning a family trip to Israel for the past three years. Because of the situation last year, they decided to delay the trip until this summer. Rabbi Posner of Beth Tfiloh was planning a shul trip at the same time, so Barry arranged all the flights. 

The Weiss group had 21 people, and the Beth Tfiloh trip had 28. They all met in Tel Aviv on the evening of June 12th. The El Al flight most of the group took was actually the last plane out of the U.S. to arrive before the airport shut down. The plane after them was forced to turn around mid-flight. 

That night, everyone was staying at the Carlton in Tel Aviv when the first sirens went off. A few days later, Barry’s group was scheduled to go to the Inbal Hotel in Jerusalem, and the Beth Tfiloh trip was to go to the Dead Sea, but that had to be canceled. The Inbal was very accommodating and arranged for the additional 28 people to stay there. They have a fabulous shelter down below but, as in Tel Aviv, they were not allowed to go outside, and there was not much to do. Barry can’t express his gratitude enough to the Inbal Hotel, which bent over backwards for them and even let them arrange entertainment. The only time they ventured out was to participate in the installation of a new mezuza at the renovated Tower of David Museum.

A few days into the trip, through contacts in the Jewish Agency, Barry’s group was offered various options to go through Athens or Aqaba, but that did not work out. Another travel agent he deals with was able to arrange visas and buses for them to cross the Allenby bridge into Jordan to get flights from Amman. Barry had booked Emirates flights from Amman to Dubai and then Washington. When they arrived in Jordan, they could not go straight to the airport because it would not be opened for a few hours. A guide had therefore been arranged to take them to Mount Nebo, from where Moshe was able to view the Land of Israel before he died, an awesome experience for his group – although Barry said, “All I wanted to do was get to the airport and get these people home!” As much as they made the best of the situation, Barry says “Our hearts were broken” after all the planning and hopes for this long-awaited trip.”

Aliza Statman

After the return flights for Aliza Statman and her two friends were canceled, their husbands, at home in America, were able to arrange their departures from Israel. They left Jerusalem for Ashdod by train at 8:30 a.m. on June 24th and waited for about an hour for the bus to take them to the dock. There they took a Mano 18-hour cruise to Cyprus. Although it was a cruise ship, unlike the Birthright group, no one on their ship was enjoying any of the amenities. They were “all in the same boat,” literally and figuratively, just eager to get home to their families. 

From Cyprus, the women took a two-hour flight to Athens, where they had to retrieve their luggage since the next flight was not a connecting one. From Athens, they flew to Newark, where a driver waited to take them home to Baltimore. Their journey took around 50 hours. Aliza says, “Thank G-d we got home safely and settled in around 2:00 a.m. Thursday morning. We all got home in time to see our kids, who left for sleep-away camp that morning, which was our goal.”

Laura*

Laura* arrived in Israel on Thursday, June 12th to attend her nephew’s bar mitzvah. She planned to fly back motzei Shabbos. With the war breaking out on Friday, the restrictions on gatherings went into effect, and the bar mitzvah Shabbos davening in shul was canceled; they davened in a private home instead with a minyan of 12 men, including the bar mitzvah boy. “It was kind of like a Covid feel,” said Laura. “We had a kiddush in my sister’s dining room. It was small but beautiful.” 

About eight days after she had planned to go home, Laura left with her father and sister using the services of a company called Lalechet Tours, which arranged the whole trip back. There were seminary girls, yeshiva guys, and families that had to get back to America in their group. A coach bus brought them from Jerusalem to Eilat, about a two-hour ride. They crossed the border to the Egyptian side and got on different buses, which drove them for about four hours to the Sharm El-Sheikh airport. From there they flew to Romania and then to JFK, where they rented a car and drove to Baltimore. The journey took around 41 hours “door to door” getting home around 11:15 p.m. Tuesday night. 

Rivka Meister

Before the outbreak of the war with Iran, Rivka Meister, along with five family members, had been trying to get to Israel, but their Swiss Air flights were cancelled due to the Houthi missile attack on Ben Gurion. After more delays, they were able to fly to Switzerland and then to Athens, where they had an Aegean Air flight to Tel Aviv. They arrived in Israel on June 12th with scheduled return flights on June 22nd. Once in Israel, they had to deal with a damaged suitcase claim. Twenty-four hours after their travel began, with no sleep the entire time, they were finally able to settle into their rented apartment in Kiryat Sefer late that night. However, there was to be no rest for the weary. At around 3:00 a.m. they were awoken by the first siren. During the sirens, Rivka felt concerned but not overly nervous. “It’s similar to a lightning storm. You have to take precautions, even though the chances of being struck by a lightning bolt are small.”

During the next few days, like many people in Israel, they felt a bit Zombie-like from lack of sleep. However, Rivka felt blessed to be able to enjoy being with her family and grandchildren in Israel, who were all off from school due to the war.

Rivka tried getting on the rescue flight lists of the U.S. and Israeli embassies. By then, the main concern was the unknown: When would they get back? In a few days, weeks, or months? She was more concerned for her married children, who had jobs in the States, and her elderly mother, whom she helps care for. Fortunately, in the end they only had to stay eight extra days and were able to leave on July 1st

El Al took them to Cyprus, where they spent seven hours before boarding an Austrian Air flight to Vienna. With 15 hours until their flight to the States, they slept overnight in a hotel, eating at Vienna’s Chabad House. The next day they landed in Dulles. The total return journey took them 48 hours, but Rivka felt it was better than going by boat or through Jordan or Egypt.

Sara Devora Aronovitch

Sara Devora Aronovitch and her mother, Mrs. Bailke Blumberg, formerly of Baltimore, flew United Airlines to Israel on June 8th to attend her niece’s chasana that Wednesday night and planned to return home on June 15th, a week before her own son’s chasana. However, that Thursday night, Iranian missiles began to fall, and their flights home were canceled. Sara Devora had a lovely visit with her sister, but now they had to find a way home before it became too late for her son’s wedding. 

      Sara Devora’s children asked their rav on two occasions, as the date got closer and closer, whether they should attempt traveling through an Arab country as many others were doing, but the rav was adamant that they not go that route. He also said they should not push off a chasana. They asked the rav what to do as a zechus for making it on time. He said the women should say Tehillim, and the men should learn an extra 10 minutes a day.

They tried all known means possible to get a flight but found no solution. Then, Sara Devora’s daughter in Passaic saw on a local chat group that, although the Arkia website said there were no flights out of Israel soon enough, if you reserved for July 1st, you could then switch the reservation to June 25th for a flight to Rome, from where they could take a United flight to Newark. They took the Arkia flight, and while in the Rome airport, Sara Devora overheard something which caused her to check with United again. It turned out that United was willing to honor their canceled tickets that night!

“We learn two things from this,” says Sara Devora: “First, always listen to daas Torah, and second, Hashem can change everything in a blink of an eye!”








comments powered by Disqus